Nestled at the core of ancient lands amongst its larger neighbouring nations, this small, underrated country gives everything to you, yet expects nothing in return. From its rolling mountains to majestic historical ruins, from beautiful welcoming villages to vibrant cities that both tell tales of war and prosperity, from luscious vineyards to its exceptional nightlife... no one can leave Lebanon without falling in love with it.
I want to describe the country through my eyes as I have become familiar with it in the hope of inspiring more to visit; I just hope I can do it justice!
Of all the lands I've encountered it is by far the most welcoming, and yet it is probably one of the least visited in the Middle East. As a result it is refreshing that there are no tourist touts hassling you at every turn. Still, it needs and deserves more tourism; such a remarkable place should not be overlooked. There is so much to see and do in such a small area and it is scandalous that so few venture here. The myth that Lebanon is 'too dangerous' is a gross misconception; like most places in the world, it depends where you go, and one should always keep well informed of the current situation. But I have been living in Beirut for four months now and have never once felt unsafe.
I have experienced the hot Mediterranean summer gradually give way to a cool, mild winter... in the summer the beach clubs and pool terraces are full by day and the chic rooftop night clubs come alive at night. Now it is mid-December and the skiing season has just begun with a fervour. The Lebanese don't do anything by halves, nor without passion.
Because it is so small it is very easy to travel about; there is always some one friendly at hand to give you helpful advice as there is not so much a public transport system, more of a "we'll worry about how to get back when we get there" attitude, which always works out fine! Hiring cars or taxis is a very simple process, although I would advise against driving if you don't want to face the crazy roads; you see the only rule of the road in Lebanon is that there are no rules! I have travelled up to Tripoli (Trablous) in the north, have tasted its celebrated sweets and explored its castle and bustling souqs; even though it is only an hour or two away, it is completely different to central Beirut's metropolitan atmosphere. And near by is the stunning mountain village of Bcharre, birth place of the famous poet and artist, Khalil Gibran. In the north-east lie the magnificent remains of the vast ancient Roman city of Baalbek. Then heading south through the Ba'aa Valley sampling delicious beverages from the many vineyards along the way is delightful. One can visit the mystical Druze in the Chouf mountains, or wander around Byblos (Jbail), the hub of the biblical Phoenician world and the birthplace of the phonetic alphabet.
So then to Beirut and its glowing nightlife... the Lebanese are famous for knowing exactly how to party and enjoy life, in whatever situation! The culture has blossoming theatre, film and music scenes; there is always so much going on around you. And the passionate student populace from Beirut's world class universities often adds a sense of youth and spirit to the city. Just walking around is magical because there is no other city quite like it. Modern structures stand next to striking, crumbling, bullet-ridden buildings; and there will be a couple of soldiers perched beside a tank on one corner, but turn the next and you are faced with a wall of colourful graffiti depicting a childhood memory, someone's life motto or a political slogan. Downtown Beirut is another ambiguity of its own... it is a ghost town. After it was reduced to rubble during the civil war, it has since been rebuilt from scratch and at first, this area was vibrant and buzzing with shops and restaurants or arguileh (sheesha) cafes. Now, because a city of tents exists next door (the political opposition party's permanent protest) all but a few shops and cafes stay open in the hope that someone will wander past.
Lebanon is unique and wonderfully unpredictable in many ways. Its people identify themselves primarily as Lebanese, then beneath that the nation is divided into different sects living side by side; predominantly Maronite Christian, Sunni Muslim and Shia Muslim with others including the mysterious Druze. On one hand this breeds great diversity and tolerance unparalleled in any other Middle Eastern state; everyday one can hear the call of the muezzin alongside church bells. And the language of choice is a brilliant mixture of Arabic, French and English. But on the downside, this state of affairs produces complex politics... the scars of its 25-year civil war remain upon many buildings in Beirut as a reminder. Incredibly, Lebanon is currently without a president and in the past two years has suffered from repeated anonymous assassinations of prominent figures; but this does not phase the Lebanese strength of character and superb sense of humour; shrugging, they will proudly state "we are Lebanese, we are unique... who knows what will happen!"
All that being said, my words cannot begin to illustrate this breathtaking place effectively, so you simply must come and experience the enchantment of Lebanon for yourself.
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