Hafeezur Rahman Malik
Mr. Hafeezur Rahman is a retired Development Banking Specialist now whiling away his time teaching and travelling. His email contact is: hafeez@khi.comsats.net.pk
It was not a text book flight. The aircraft dropped and surged up. Passengers pressed their feet to the floor in panic reflexes. They silently cursed the pilot. On landing, while others heaved a sigh of relief, I was trembling with fear. I had no visa. I was originally booked on a Karachi-Lagos flight. I requested a break at Addis, the capital city of Ethiopia, with the airline. They did some juggling with the tickets but warned me of visa problems. In the arrival lounge of Bole International Airport, I tried to spot a friendly face to explain my difficulties. My eyes met a fellow Pakistani dressed in a fine cotton shalwar - kameez. Rubbing shoulders with him was a local gentleman with a snow white robe with a border of bright colors. I approached them with a smiling face. They reciprocated the gesture and introduced themselves as Iqbal from Islamabad, Pakistan and Josef from Addis. Iqbal was on the same flight as me. Josef was a representative of a local NGO. He had the security clearance to come inside the airport to receive his guest. Both helped me in getting a seven day visa. The fear of being bundled back was over. I could once again walk with my chin up. A sturdy Citroen was waiting for them. As a courtesy, they asked me to accompany them. That was Godsend, a wind fall, I stuck like glue to them for most of the time.
A drive from the airport to a hotel in the city centre reflected sharp inequalities. Poor shacks were mixed up with fine villas. A sprawling mess of open-air stalls co-existed with elegant shops. One could buy fresh vegetables and fine gold jewelry on the same street. Many women were sitting cross-legged on the ground selling spices and fruit. Stalls were heaped with bananas, grapes, pomegranates, figs, custard apples,  and red onions. Many young boys or girls, about ten years old, were carrying huge bags on their heads. Just one look at the baskets and then at their faces showed that the baskets were easily double the weight of the poor kids.
Cars, trucks and motorbikes clogged the narrow streets. At the same time, there were pedestrians everywhere, along the road and on the road. Due to massive poverty few could afford any transport. The two legs were the only means of moving around, up or down. Once our car stopped due to a traffic jam. A young boy tried to sell a watch to us amidst stalled vehicles. Out of sheer sympathy I asked him how much he would get from what was paid for the watch. He thought he was about to make a killing and started dropping the price from $18 to $12. He clung to the car, even when it started moving. It was a most dreadful scene. Thank God, there was no accident.
TRADITIONAL DINNER
My Pakistani friend, Iqbal, had come to audit some of the ongoing projects of an NGO, Cooperative American Relief (CAR). In the evening he was invited to a traditional Ethiopian dinner. He took me along. We were seated on a comfortable divan. A young girl brought a copper pitcher in her right hand and a basin in her left hand. She poured warm water over my right hand holding the basin to catch the excess water. Afterwards, she inclined her shoulder towards me with a slant in her eyes. I was bewitched by her charm and considered it an open invitation. All those tell-tales of promiscuity rolled around in my head. It took me some time to realize that she was asking me to wipe my hand with the towel hanging on her shoulder. Later, she brought a tray with a grey cloth on which food items were placed in small heaps. These were assortments of chicken and lamb stews, minced raw beef, cottage cheese and yogurt. What I thought to  be a tablecloth turned out to be injera, pancake like bread. The host tore off a piece and then rolled it in the stew. He popped the roll in our mouths to display his love. Since we also eat with our right hand, we felt quite at home. Soon we outsmarted him in sweeping up the delicious foods. Like China, no dessert was served. The dinner was concluded with black coffee in tiny cups. At the end, the hand-washing ritual was repeated. This time I grabbed the towel without any misconception as before.
Next morning, I woke up with a soft knock. Iqbal was going for official business and was kind enough to say that he would send back the car for me. Blood is thicker than water. We had just met in the airport lounge and he was taking care of me as a big brother would, although lot younger.
After an hour, I received a call from the hotel reception that a car was waiting for me. I stepped down the stairs as gracefully as I could muster. A chauffeur driven car was a big deal. The chauffeur saluted me and opened the back door. I preferred to sit in the front seat leaving him bewildered. He told me that his name was Berket and he always served big dignitaries. I thought I would remove his misgivings at the end of the tour. First we went to the open-air market of Addis. It was a huge setting where everything imaginable was available. The display was awesome, from clothing to chinaware, ornaments to stitching machines. Bags full of grain were ready for sale. The grain would be used for making bread in the same way as thousand years ago. Rancid butter was wrapped in wax paper or banana leaves. Dozens of varieties were offered revealing the diversified taste and heritage of the land. "You ask, we have," was the sale-pitch. There could hardly be such a place anywhere else where everything is available within a stone's throw.
Our next destination was the Ethnographic Museum. There were no road signs and discovery of the museum was only possible because of Berket. The museum had an impressive array of religious crosses, triptychs and murals as well as Haile Selssies's bedroom and bathroom. Nearby was Africa Hall. It had huge, richly coloured stained glass windows portraying the history and diversity of African people. There were plenty of hotels, some cheap with street bars.  There were many mosques and churches along the way. Muslims and Christians were equal - around 40% each. They peacefully co-existed.
In the evening, the driver dropped me at the hotel. I went to a cafe for a cup of tea. There was a bar in the corner. Soon, a group of young men entered. A bar girl stepped out of the counter and kissed all three times. Wish I were not a tee totaller. I had already burnt my boats by ordering tea.
LAST DAY
I was due to reach Lagos by the day after tomorrow. So I had only one more day. The previous night, I had spun a lot of yarns and conned Iqbal into believing that the area around Addis was the best in the world. He fell for it and decided to go with me on my next jaunt. Of course, I was counting on the continued availability of free transport. It would certainly make the drive pleasant even if there were nothing to see. But that was what I thought - oblivious of the troubles in store.
Early in the morning we left for Great Rift Valley. The valley was in fact a long crack. The road was rustic and narrow. Though we had left Addis far behind, the trail of pedestrians continued. It was more a people-way than a motor way. Berket was honking constantly to stay clear of people, goats and cows. The area was well populated, lush with acacia trees, rolling farms and coffee plantations. Our car was air-conditioned. But we had to open the windows as dust covered the glass obstructing the view. Though the open windows afforded some views, it invited a lot of dust to suffocate us. These were closed down again to get relief from the heat and dust. The driver could not see our plight for long. He stopped the car. We were instantly surrounded by a crowd of young and old. The driver bought a herb called chat and passed it on to us for chewing. It was a mild stimulant. It made us brave enough to face the dust and dirt with a smile, to laugh over the jumps caused by potholes, to praise the driver for abrupt breaks to save a boy or chicken on the road. Suddenly Iqbal shouted to stop. It was clear that the hallucinatory effects had wavered off. He was the boss. Fortunately, in the razzle-dazzle, rattle-clatter, we were near a lake, one of seven in Great Rift Valley.
We left the car on the road-side and walked a short distance to the lake. There were heaps of birds afloat. Hundreds of strange and colourful birds were darting in and out of lush vegetation. We were having a real taste of Ethiopia, a bird watchers paradise. We thought that in jungle we would be left alone. No, we were joined by a young man  who had deep facial scars. He talked endlessly about the birds and perhaps his services to locate them. All we could understand were few words like Ibis, long claw, black headed sisken.
As it was getting late, we decided to walk to a nearby village. On our way, we saw more men with facial scars. This reflected their status in the tribe. Some carried old carbine rifles to keep away thieves and predators. The image of a tall, motionless guard with a sunset in the backdrop could bewitch anyone for a lifetime. Berket went ahead a little faster towards the village. When we reached there, he was holding two mugs of hot coffee, sizzling and aromatic. This was most refreshing and for the first time, I saw a smile on face of Iqbal. I was sure he was in a way expressing his gratitude. On the contrary, he would never have shown his anger. This was a foreign land, not Karachi, not Lahore. In Pakistan, it was common to ditch a person at a very godforsaken place for having a big mouth.
While in the village, we observed that people had simple dresses but had radical hairstyles - shaped and fashioned with razor-sharp knives. Many had leathered clothing with bead or shell ornamentation, or brightly colored garments. Young girls had their hair in two buns behind the ears, their foreheads decorated with silver, leaves or flowers.
 We returned by evening. We had a little gossip, a short walk near the hotel and hugged each other tightly, as I was to leave for Lagos in early hours.
I would never forget Ethiopia. It was a romantic place, a real Africa, brown, arid and magnificent. Lonely and silent. The people were nice. They had a spark in their eyes, hard to describe. It was something to do with eternal things, no vice, and no lust.
HRM
ETHIOPIA, FACTS FOR TRAVELERS
GENERAL: Ethiopia sits land-locked, surrounded by Eritrea to the north, Djibouti and Somalia to the east, Kenya to the south and Sudan to the west. Spring begins in September, and summer in Jan - March. Climate is mild & sunny.
POPULATION: 58 Million, only 11% living in urban areas of more than 2,000 people while 89% lead an agrarian lifestyle.
CAPITAL: Addis Ababa (pop 3 million).
PHYSICAL: A high plateau with mountain plain in east, Blue Nile River & Great Rift Valley.
LANGUAGE: Amharic (official), Tigrinya, Orominga, Guaraginga, Somali, Arabic, English.
ECONOMY: Major exports are coffee, wheat, corn, millet, cattle, gold and platinum. Major imports are foods and live animals, petroleum and petroleum products.
RELIGION: Muslim 45%-50%, Ethiopian Orthodox 35%-40%, animist 12%, other 3%-8%.
UNIT OF CURRENCY: Birr - around 7 per US $.
ENTRY & EXIT: Of all the countries in the region, Ethiopia is more strict on visa requirements. Anti-malarial pills are strongly advised, vaccination needed.
AVERAGE PRICES: Prices are low, a normal budget of $10/day is enough. Meal Budget (one $), Room Budget $3. Even a three star hotel does not exceed $20
TRANSPORT: Addis Ababa-Djibouti Railway stretches over 480 miles. Ethiopian Airlines is one of Africa's largest and best airlines. A good network of dirt-cheap, dead slow buses travel along all major roads.
ETIQUETTE: Remember to shake hands frequently, always when being introduced and saying good bye. In Muslim areas, women do not join men on formal occasions.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Addis Ababa - National Museum whose most famous exhibit is the 3.5 million year old skeleton of Lucy.
Adadi Mariam - About 90 km south west of Addis Ababa is the Adadi Marim cave Church.
Debre Libanos - 100 km north of Addis Ababa is the 13th century monastery of Debre Libanos.
Awash National Park - The bird life is prolific, and there are 5 endemic amongst the 392 species recorded. Hot springs are a special attraction for tourists.
The Bale Mountains National Park - With a considerable number of Mountain Nyale, Duiker, Warthog, and Menlik's Bushbuck, and sometimes leopards and Simien Foxes can be spotted.
The Omo National Park - One of the most beautiful national parks in Ethiopia, its 4,068 km of wilderness bordered by the Omo River, is home to an amazing range of wildlife.
The Tana - The source of the famed Blue Nile, which starts its long journey on to the Mediterranean.
Tissisat - Home to the Blue Nile Falls - the most spectacular water falls in Northern Africa.
Axum - Source and seal of ancient Ethiopian civilization. The magnificent obelisks of Axum, the ruins of the palace of the Queen of Shaba etc. are some of the objects of attraction.
Lalibela - The home of our most famous churches. The 11 rock-hewn churches of Lalibela are rich with architectural magnificence.
Gondar - Celebrated for its castle and palaces.
Simene Mountain National Parks - The home of the famous Walia Ibex.
Hafeezur Rahman
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