I am captivated with the playful spirit of my new friend. Her eyes meet mine, a brief smile flashes across my face as I disappear behind the van. She slowly edges closer, suddenly lunging forward to peer momentarily around the corner. Our eyes meet again as we both break into laughter. Our languages are different but our laughter is understood. This continues for ten minutes until my van moves on.
My friend is a five year old Tarahumara, native to the Copper Canyon. Our paths crossed when she asked me for a peso, a frequently used word in her limited Spanish vocabulary. Out of change, I handed her part of my lunch - a granola bar and a can of juice. She ate it while staring at me intently, occasionally smiling with curiosity.
This exchange took place in Divisadero, one of many stops on my Copper Canyon journey. Although I had already spent five months in Mexico, I felt as if I had once again stepped on foreign land. The Copper Canyon is vastly different from the humidity and the heat found on the coastal shores of Sinaloa.
Journeys to the Copper Canyon usually begin by boarding the Pacifico Railroad. Rugged terrain and gravel roads make it difficult to reach the canyon by car, especially when traveling from the Pacific inland. Offering spectacular views and breath taking scenery, it is well worth it to board the Pacifico in Los Mochis or El Fuerte. The travel time to Creel is approximately ten hours.
Centrally located, Creel serves as a base point for many travelers. Rooted as a logging town, Creel has maintained its rustic feel. The people of Creel tend to be warm, generous and welcoming. It is not uncommon for a pleasant conversation to end with a personally guided tour. With a peeking population of about 5000, travelers quickly become acquainted with local faces and store owners.
From a Best Western to private log cabins, Creel offers comfortable accommodation suitable for a variety of needs. With dorm rooms priced at 70 Pesos a night (about $7), Casa Margarita's is a proven favorite among budget travelers. This price includes breakfast and dinner.
There are numerous day tours leaving from Creel. A typical tour includes an English speaking guide, transportation and lunch for under $20. Some of the most popular tours are to Cusarare, Divisadero and Valle de los Hongos. Registration and tour schedules are available at all hotels.
Occupied by a small Tarahumara community, the forest of Cusarare is home to a 30 foot rushing waterfall. Nestled deep within the wilderness, one must hike two kilometers down a gravel pathway just to reach the running waters. This well kept pathway is shared with the Tarahumara and a few friendly stray dogs.
Just outside of Creel is the Valle de los Hongos or the Valley of the Mushrooms. The area earned its name from its strange rock formations. Years of wind and erosion have shaped these rocks into eye catching structures that baffle the eye.
While Creel is an excellent base location, it does not offer generous views of the canyon. To truly appreciate the canyon's massive depth and awe inspiring beauty, travelers should make the hour long journey to Divisadero. Here one can stand at the canyon's peak and gaze into the vast array of color and life below them. The experience can be both humbling and profound.
I myself did just that as I prepared to leave the canyon. The Pacifico stops in Divisadero, providing passengers with 15 minutes to enjoy a final glimpse of the canyon's beauty. As I stood, I could not help but notice the rocks were constantly changing their image in the reflection of the setting sun. The rich reds and moist browns were both warm and inviting. They left me longing to return.
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